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Hikes in Bieszczady Mountains: The wildest area in Poland

  • ptakuyap15
  • Mar 20, 2022
  • 5 min read

Updated: Oct 4


Bieszczady

When it comes to hiking in Poland, probably Tatra mountains are the first name area to pop up. However, Bieszczady might be the best for hikers who don't like the huge crowd.



Bieszczady mountains run from the extreme south-east of Poland and north-east of Slovakia through to western Ukraine.


Even to Poles, Bieszczady has been known as a hippie place. There is even a polish phrase for people who sold the house and move to Bieszczady looking for a quiet life surrounded by mountains! (Zakapior Bieszczadzki)


This is the blog about our hiking in Bieszczady.





1.Why You Should Visit and do hikes in Bieszczady

1.1.Quiet and calm environment


Wetlina

The Bieszczady Mountains are less crowded than the popular Tatra Mountains in Poland, allowing you to enjoy a quiet and peaceful atmosphere. It is the perfect place for those who want to relax in nature or seek silence.




1.2.Abundant trekking courses


Bieszczady Map

Bieszczady has many well-maintained trekking courses that can be enjoyed by beginners to advanced hikers.


The highest peak, Mount Tarnica (1,375m), is not that high, making it an attractive and easy challenge. Additionally, because the mountains are connected, you can enjoy traverse hikes and trail running.


Tarnica



1.3.Hippie Vive


Hippie Bieszczady

Bieszczady is also known as an area where hippie culture has taken root.


You'll find many artworks by local Bieszczady artists. Once I even met a wood carver on a trail.


This blog also features recommended restaurants where you can enjoy local art.




2.HOW TO GET TO BIESZCZADY

Bieszczady

We took a train from Gdansk to Warsaw and a night bus from Warsaw to Ustryki Gorne.

For bus, check out this website (Flixbus).

You can only reach Sanok by train so you need to use a bus unless you have a car.


By the way, it was my first night bus experience in Europe. I've done it many times in Japan, not my favourite way to travel but I can just sleep.... I was wrong.


Well, the bus was very clean and seat size was okay too, BUT I felt like being in a party which is almost over, where most people left and only a few people chatting while the music is still going on...


The two bus drivers chatted all the way till morning and some cool party music kept playing. I would have liked it 10 years ago but I am over that haha


So basically I couldn't sleep at all.


I'm sure not all the night buses are like this in Poland but I think I would avoid the night bus the next time haha


Flix Bus


3.RECOMMENDED RESTAURANTS


3.1.Pizzeria "W górach" (V Gurafu)


Perhaps the only bar and restaurant in Wołosate?

After finishing a mountain climb in the cold, the large pizza and IPA beer I had in the restaurant with a fireplace were the best.



3.2.Siekierezada

Siekierezada

It's a large restaurant, and the entire space is covered in art by artists from Bieszczady. The food was delicious, but just walking around the restaurant is fun! Worth a visit.


Siekierezada
Siekierezada



4.Recommended Trails

4.1.WOŁOSATE - TARNICA 

tarnica

Distance: 10.68 km

Elevation gain: 611 m

Time: 3:32:23

Water refill points: None



The highest peak in Bieszczady. The cross at the summit is iconic.


Because this trekking course is located within a national park, an entrance fee is required, but it was convenient that payment could be made by card.


The course itself is not that difficult, to the point that families with children also walk it. The first three-quarters of the course progress through a lush forest, and the last quarter is a path that runs along the mountainside. The changing scenery is also appealing.


Bieszczady
Bieszczady

When I climbed, I was able to see a beautiful sunset near the summit, making it an unforgettable experience.


Tarnica
Tarnica



4.2.Wołosate – Wielka Rawka Loop

Wielka Rawka

Distance: 34.22 km

Elevation gain: 1,449 m

Time: 10:08:30

Water resources: None



I had a buffet breakfast at Zajazd Pod Caryńską, a hostel in Ustrzyki Górne.


Zajazd Pod Caryńską

There was also żurek, a traditional Polish soup, which was very tasty. Since it was Sunday, all the surrounding shops were closed, so we felt like, "We have to eat as much as we can here and stock up!"


map

The hiking plan for the day was to traverse several mountains. From beginning to end, the wind was incredibly strong, and we experienced the harshness of nature.


Bieszczady

Especially after crossing Wielka Rawka, the route follows the border line with Ukraine. At the border, poles painted in the colors of each country's flag are lined up at regular intervals.


Bieszczady

Although there aren't any guards stationed here, this is known as the "Green Border," and crossing it without formal entry procedures is illegal. I walked carefully, making sure not to step too far over the pole.


Bieszczady



4.3.Wetlina - Smerek


Smerek

Distance: 15 km

Elevation gain: 731 m

Duration: 4:38

Water resources: None




From the town of Wetlina to Smerek, with an elevation of 1222 meters.


The beginning of the trail goes through the forest, and walking through the soft snow was very pleasant. The trail is also well maintained.


Smerek

Exiting the forest, the open ridge landscape was beautiful with the contrast of yellow grass and snow.


Smerek

The wind is strong, but the air is clear, so it's nice that I can see the trail stretching far into the distance.


Smerek

Smerek is one of the most popular mountains in the Bieszczady range. The reason is that it is not too difficult, yet the scenery is wonderful. The amount of exercise is moderate, but to be honest, if you underestimate the wind, it can be quite challenging.



4.4.Cisna - Okrąglik


Jasło

Distance: 20.87 km

Elevation gain: 988 m

Duration: 7:20

Water resources: None




This is a hike that starts from Cisna, a relatively large town in the Bieszczady area.


Cisna

By the way, Cisna is also the host town for the "Bieg Rzeźnika," a famous ultramarathon in Poland.


Bieg Rzeźnika

The trail starts on a disused train track.


Cisna

Compared to the other trails I've introduced, this trail might be less scenic since it mostly goes through the forest.


However, it's nice to be able to walk in the shade of the trees during the hot summer.


Bieszczady

I encountered a wild "Fire Salamander" for the first time while trekking.


When surprised or feeling threatened, it seems they secrete a whitish poisonous liquid from the poison glands on their back.


Fire Salamander

Looking at the scenery with mountains still spreading on the Slovakian side, I reaffirmed that it is a wild area.


If you have time, you can go further along the ridge that runs along the border than Okálongrik.


Jasło




5.SUMMARY OF INTRODUCED SPOTS


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About Me

A remote worker living in Poland. I’ve also lived in Hawaii, Singapore, New Zealand, and Bali in the past.

On Chill Life in Poland, I mainly write about Poland, travel, and life hacks. Thanks for reading!

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